莫 斯 科 餐 廳 ﹐ 位 於 北 京 城 西 的 展 覽 館 兩 側 ﹐五 六 十 年 代 頗 為 紅 火 過 一 陣 子 。 民 間 稱 其 為 「老 莫 」 ─ ─ 就 像 把 蘇 聯 喊 作 老 大 哥 一 樣 ﹐ 很 親昵 。 那 時 候 的 北 京 青 年 （ 高 幹 子 弟 居 多 ） ﹐ 把去 「 老 莫 」 吃 西 餐 視 若 充 滿 榮 耀 感 的 活 動 ﹐ 彷彿 這 不 是 一 次 飯 局 ﹐ 而 接 近 於 禮 儀 式 的 朝 拜 。沒 去 過 「 老 莫 」 ﹐ 就 像 外 地 人 來 北 京 沒 晉 見 天安 門 城 樓 ﹐ 別 提 多 遺 憾 了 。 「 老 莫 」 簡 直 是 給北 京 新 興 的 青 年 貴 族 進 行 精 神 上 的 授 勛 。 

    　　「 老 莫 」 的 西 餐 究 竟 有 多 好 吃 ﹐ 說 不 清 楚 ﹐但 那 時 候 北 京 的 冬 季 蔬 菜 幾 乎 讓 大 白 菜 獨 佔 ﹐主 食 也 不 乏 棒 子 麵 ﹑ 窩 窩 頭 之 類 粗 糧 。 坐 在 落地 玻 璃 的 歐 式 穹 頂 建 築 裡 ﹐ 胸 前 圍 著 漂 白 的 餐巾 ﹐ 手 持 沉 甸 甸 的 鍍 銀 刀 叉 ﹐ 慢 條 斯 理 地 切 割噴 香 的 炸 豬 排 或 烤 小 牛 肉 ﹐ 小 口 啜 著 開 胃 的 杜松 子 酒 或 伏 特 加 ﹐ 可 真 是 陽 光 燦 爛 的 日 子 。 王朔 的 《 動 物 兇 猛 》 確 實 寫 到 過 在 莫 斯 科 餐 廳 的生 日 聚 會 ﹐ 當 年 的 頑 主 們 喝 多 了 酒 ﹐ 出 了 門 便把 吃 的 炸 豬 排 ﹑ 奶 油 烤 雜 拌 兒 和 黃 油 果 醬 麵 包全 慷 慨 地 吐 在 柵 欄 旁 和 草 地 上 。 醉 後 的 唯 一 印象 是 ﹕ 柵 欄 那 邊 的 動 物 園 象 房 內 ﹐ 班 達 拉 奈 克夫 人 送 的 小 象 「 米 杜 拉 」 正 在 幾 頭 高 大 的 非 洲公 象 身 後 搖 著 尾 巴 吃 草 呢 … … 他 另 一 篇 小 說 （好 像 是 《 橡 皮 人 》 ） ﹐ 似 乎 還 寫 過 在 「 老 莫 」冷 飲 廳 吃 冰 淇 淋 和 果 盤 ﹐ 規 矩 是 先 吃 而 最 後 清點 桌 上 的 碟 子 結 帳 ﹐ 頑 主 們 邊 吃 邊 乘 服 務 員 不注 意 將 空 碟 子 塞 進 胸 挎 的 軍 用 黃 書 包 ﹐ 或 索 性悄 悄 拋 進 窗 外 的 池 塘 裡 … … 這 些 都 是 我 讀 王 朔小 說 模 糊 的 記 憶 了 。 不 知 是 否 確 實 在 生 活 中 發生 過 ﹖ 

    　　總 之 我 在 北 京 ﹐ 騎 車 路 過 莫 斯 科 餐 廳 半 圓 穹形 的 深 咖 啡 色 門 廊 ﹐ 會 有 各 種 各 樣 的 聯 想 。 我是 長 安 街 的 外 鄉 人 ﹐ 「 老 莫 」 對 於 我 如 同 另 一種 高 處 門 扉 虛 掩 的 生 活 ﹐ 或 另 一 種 生 活 的 密 碼。 一 個 過 客 對 路 旁 飽 經 滄 桑 的 老 字 號 燙 金 門 匾只 能 留 下 深 深 一 瞥 ─ ─ 但 這 一 瞥 常 常 也 可 能 穿透 時 空 了 。 「 老 莫 」 容 易 喚 醒 塵 封 的 五 十 年 代的 感 覺 ﹐ 雕 花 門 柱 下 進 出 的 大 多 是 穿 列 寧 裝 或布 拉 吉 的 男 女 食 客 。 他 們 現 在 都 在 哪 裡 ﹖ 甬 道旁 電 線 杆 上 的 高 音 喇 叭 可 能 正 播 送 俄 語 版 的 《莫 斯 科 郊 外 的 晚 上 》 ﹐ 踏 上 莫 斯 科 餐 廳 的 大 理石 台 階 有 跨 越 國 界 的 恍 惚 。 哦 ﹐ 遙 遠 的 地 方 ﹐遙 遠 的 人 與 事 。 據 近 幾 年 從 俄 羅 斯 「 串 聯 」 回來 的 熟 人 介 紹 ﹐ 在 莫 斯 科 市 區 也 有 一 家 以 東 北菜 和 齊 魯 風 味 為 主 的 北 京 飯 店 ﹐ 當 地 人 極 垂 涎裡 面 色 香 味 俱 全 的 中 國 菜 和 紅 星 牌 二 鍋 頭 。 莫斯 科 與 北 京 的 關 係 ﹐ 是 國 際 關 係 ﹐ 是 盧 布 與 人民 幣 的 關 係 。 在 北 京 的 金 山 上 ﹐ 吃 俄 羅 斯 大 菜（ 俗 話 說 叫 「 開 洋 葷 」 ） ﹐ 雲 裡 霧 裡 ﹐ 不 知 自己 是 主 人 還 是 客 人 。 

    　　「 老 莫 」 緊 靠 北 京 動 物 園 ﹐ 酒 足 飯 飽 後 買 一張 門 票 去 看 看 動 物 親 戚 ﹐ 更 會 增 添 勝 者 為 王 的感 覺 。 或 者 逛 逛 尖 塔 頂 端 懸 掛 紅 星 標 記 的 蘇 式風 格 的 展 覽 館 ﹐ 裡 面 經 常 有 中 西 各 式 傢 具 展 覽﹐ 熱 鬧 非 凡 。 

    　　我 剛 從 南 方 來 北 京 謀 生 時 ﹐ 進 過 一 次 「 老 莫」 。 當 時 賺 了 一 筆 稿 費 ﹐ 便 鼓 足 勇 氣 請 一 位 結識 不 久 的 女 孩 。 席 間 我 喝 了 好 多 黑 啤 酒 ﹐ 抽 了半 盒 「 中 南 海 」 ﹐ 紅 光 滿 面 ﹐ 說 了 好 多 話 。 對面 的 女 孩 一 直 面 帶 微 笑 ﹐ 用 小 湯 匙 攪 拌 煮 沸 後端 上 來 的 奶 茶 ﹐ 只 是 聽 ﹐ 只 是 聽 ﹐ 女 孩 體 貼 我稿 費 菲 薄 ﹐ 只 按 會 議 標 準 點 了 四 菜 一 湯 ─ ─ 哪幾 道 小 菜 我 怎 麼 也 追 憶 不 起 來 ﹐ 只 記 得 澆 番 茄醬 的 俄 羅 斯 紅 菜 湯 很 溫 暖 。 好 多 年 過 去 ﹐ 甚 至那 女 孩 的 模 樣 也 在 腦 海 中 淡 化 了 。 只 記 得 她 辮子 上 紮 著 橙 紅 的 蝴 蝶 結 ﹐ 笑 吟 吟 的 ﹐ 只 是 聽 ﹐只 是 聽 … … 

    　　莫 斯 科 餐 廳 ﹐ 我 還 能 說 出 更 多 的 什 麼 嗎 ﹖ 我和 「 老 莫 」 還 有 什 麼 更 多 的 關 係 嗎 ﹖ 僅 此 而 已。 這 些 年 「 老 莫 」 的 霸 主 地 位 被 逐 漸 剝 奪 ﹐ 北京 市 面 上 更 流 行 是 潮 汕 粵 菜 ﹑ 美 式 快 餐 和 法 國大 菜 。 很 少 聽 人 言 稱 「 老 莫 」 了 。 甚 至 「 老 莫」 也 在 臨 街 的 舖 面 上 增 設 了 平 民 化 的 快 餐 兼 冷飲 廳 。